Rick Jig

  • Rick Jig


The Rick Jig has been made 1/2″ overall wider to keep from breaking out on the edges if you stick a pin.

It is symmetrical left to right for so you can use your depth gauge to set rails anywhere and be the same left and right.

The addition of (114) 1/16″ holes for laying the first rail on a Jail Door build, they pins are seperated with 1/16″ stainless steel pins or you can lay a double rail and use the next hole.
This arrangemnt makes for postive chassis width stops from 3/4″ up to 3-1/8″ and every size needed in between.

There is a scribed line in the center of two pins in the rear, which I call zero, and another scribed line at exactly 4″ forward for the front axle, as this is a standard retro build.

If you use those two points as a starting point, there is another scribed line for a 1″ guide lead and then three lines, each way of 1″ for setting your guide length.

Notice the really cool thumb nut for the guide screw!

The T-slot now goes entirely front the back, making it possible to put a hold down strap anywhere on the block you desire, Just slide a nut in the slot and screw in a stud and clamp anywhere you want.

You will notice four screws sticking up on the block, these will be for those builds you do not have a jig wheel set for, yet. These four flat head screws will allow you to lay your axle on them and adjust height to any needed tire diameter. So you have jig stops built in, you could always add your own extra screws with lock nuts on them and keep them in sets for any height you want. Probably not a feature you would use every day but when you want to build and do not have the proper jig wheel, this sure beats waiting a week for them to arrive.

Parts List:

All the hardware is brass or stainless steel to resist corrosion from the harch environment we work in.

(12) SS 1/16″ pins
(8) SS 1/8″ wheelsbase pins
(1) brass guide thumb nut
(2) aluminum hold downs and one hard maple hold down.
(4) SS jig stop screws